When I can get my hands on true, sun-drenched summer tomatoes I want to do as little to them as possible before eating them. Vine-ripened and warmed by the summer sun, all they need is slicing with a sharp knife, and then a big glug of extra-virgin olive oil, a sprinkle of flaky salt and a few young basil leaves. I also love cosying up fresh cheese like ricotta beside the tomato; a quartered piece of stone fruit might make its way onto the plate too. Another way to turn really good tomatoes into a meal is to make this flaky crostata. Onions are cooked down until they are a caramel colour before being hidden under a layer of jewel-like summer tomatoes. Lots of black pepper, olive oil, flaky salt and fresh oregano, thyme and basil are scattered and drizzled over the top. Serve with a crisp salad on the side and some wine, for a light and cool meal under the hot summer sun.
125 g (41/2 oz) unsalted butter, chilled and diced
75 ml (21/2 fl oz) iced water mixed with 1 teaspoon apple-cider vinegar
FILLING
2 tablespoons butter
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil plus extra for drizzling
3 onions, sliced in half then finely sliced
20 g (3/4 oz) pecorino
4 medium–large summer tomatoes and a handful of smaller cherry/baby tomatoes (preferably a variety of colours)
3 oregano sprigs
3 thyme sprigs
1 egg
1 sprig fresh young basil for serving
Method
To begin making the filling
Heat the butter and olive oil in a heavy-based or cast-iron saucepan over a low heat. Add the onions, season with a generous pinch of salt and stir, then leave them to cook slowly for about an hour until they are very soft and caramelised. Be patient; let them go slowly until golden. When they are done, leave to cool completely.
Cut the larger tomatoes into slices 1–2 cm (1/2–3/4 in) thick, and the smaller tomatoes into halves or thirds.
To make the dough
Combine the flour, pecorino and a pinch of salt in a bowl. Add the chilled butter, then rub the flour and butter together with your fingertips until the cubes of butter are the size of baby peas and the mixture resembles coarse breadcrumbs. Add enough of the iced water and vinegar to just bring the mixture together to form a dough (don’t overwork it). If the dough is dry, add more water a tablespoon at a time, but be careful that it doesn’t get too sticky. Cover the dough, then leave it to rest in the fridge for at least 1 hour, or ideally overnight.
To construct and bake the crostata
Preheat the oven to 220°C (430°F).
Roll out the chilled pastry into a rough circle that is about 30 cm (12 in) in diameter. As you roll it out, you will notice big chunks of butter throughout the dough – that is perfect, because those chunks will give the pastry a flaky, crisp texture. Line a baking tray with baking paper, then put the rolled-out pastry onto it.
Leaving a border about 5 cm (2 in) around the edge, spread the cooled onions in a thin layer over the pastry. Shave a light layer of pecorino over the onions, then lay over the tomatoes, overlapping them slightly and grouping them together based on the tomato variety. Season the tomatoes with flaky salt and a few grinds of black pepper. Pour over a glug of extra-virgin olive oil, then sprinkle a few sprigs of oregano and thyme over the tomatoes.
Gently fold the edges of the pastry up over the tomatoes, overlapping and crimping the pastry as you work your way around. If by this time the dough has warmed up and feels limp, put the crostata in the fridge to cool down and harden for 15 minutes (this will ensure a flaky pastry).
Beat the egg in a bowl, then paint the pastry with the egg wash. Bake the crostata for 20–30 minutes, until the pastry is crisp and golden. Let it cool slightly before serving with fresh young basil over the top.
When I can get my hands on true, sun-drenched summer tomatoes I want to do as little to them as possible before eating them. Vine-ripened and warmed by the summer sun, all they need is slicing with a sharp knife, and then a big glug of extra-virgin olive oil, a sprinkle of flaky salt and a few young basil leaves. I also love cosying up fresh cheese like ricotta beside the tomato; a quartered piece of stone fruit might make its way onto the plate too. Another way to turn really good tomatoes into a meal is to make this flaky crostata. Onions are cooked down until they are a caramel colour before being hidden under a layer of jewel-like summer tomatoes. Lots of black pepper, olive oil, flaky salt and fresh oregano, thyme and basil are scattered and drizzled over the top. Serve with a crisp salad on the side and some wine, for a light and cool meal under the hot summer sun.
Recipe and images from Ellie’s Table, cookbook by Elli Bouhadana, published by Hardie Grant Publishing.
Ingredients (MAKES ONE CROSTATA TO SERVE 4–5)
DOUGH
250 g (9 oz) plain (all-purpose) flour
50 g (13/4 oz) pecorino, finely grated
125 g (41/2 oz) unsalted butter, chilled and diced
75 ml (21/2 fl oz) iced water mixed with 1 teaspoon apple-cider vinegar
FILLING
2 tablespoons butter
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil plus extra for drizzling
3 onions, sliced in half then finely sliced
20 g (3/4 oz) pecorino
4 medium–large summer tomatoes and a handful of smaller cherry/baby tomatoes (preferably a variety of colours)
3 oregano sprigs
3 thyme sprigs
1 egg
1 sprig fresh young basil for serving
Method
To begin making the filling
To make the dough
To construct and bake the crostata
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